On Italian cycling culture, banter, and being overtaken

Wow, I have just experienced the very heart of Italian cycling culture, I think. The Dolomites and the Groupo di Sella (group of saddles) in particular were rammed today (Saturday) with thousands of cyclists climbing and descending the various spectacular mountain passes in the area. Sometimes I like my cycling to be out in the (seeming) wilderness, all alone. Today I was happy to be a part of something quite Italian, and perhaps unique.

There was endless lycra and carbon on show. Most were riding as part of a team or club, out training in team colours, often with a support van waiting at the top of the pass for refueling and encouragement.

I think I got over excited by it all. After a 'journee sans' yesterday (a day without any energy) and only 60ks or so, I was fully rested this morning and feeling good as I hit the first climb. Within half a k, I was overtaken for the first of many times. (Since Dubrovnik I had only been overtaken twice before). Being a competitive chap, at the start I would hold onto the wheel as someone came past. But as I got used to it, I learned to hold my own pace. Instead I indulged in my usual gooning around and banter in such situations, trying to engage the overtaker with a simple 'ciao' or 'race you' or even 'can you carry my bags for me'. The language barrier seemed to get in the way and I mostly got a polite nod in response. I guess I was also breaking several of the unwritten rules of Italian cycling coolness, both with my attempted banter and 4 heavyweight panniers.

I have to say I love the fact that I am carrying an unknown handicap on these climbs. People always look at me a bit stangely, sometimes they say 'bravo' in recognition. As people pass I like to imagine they are calculating how much weight I am carrying, and whether my weight corrected effort is more or less. I know I do. Whereas everyone else is using pretty much the same equipment, and performance can be compared, with me and my weight handicap, no one can tell how well, or badly, I am doing. It is the perfect cloak of (performance) secrecy.

Special mention to Italian 'Raymond' who, at the end of a long day, without prompting from my ridiculous banter (too tired), overtook me, then slowed for me to sit on his wheel (in his slipstream) into a headwind for about 20ks. Bizarrely we conversed in German, a very poor alternative language for both of us. Now I am in Sud Tirol, I think I will be sprechening Deutsche a little more. German banter, now there's a challenge.

Great day overall. The Dolomites are spectacular, climbing has become fun, descending is a joy on perfectly surfaced switchbacks, my humour is making me laugh if no one else, and I've got more tomorrow...

Mit freundlichen gruchen, James