Slug fest

Last night the heavens opened on me in my tent. Luckily I had eaten the most hearty of €15 fixed price meals at my rural bar / camping site (about 6 courses and including beer) and I slept through most of it. But I woke to about 20m visibility and some very wet washing that I had put out to dry. After checking the forecast, wet for the next week, I decided to crack on anyway. I packed up all my wet gear and put my wet shoes on, and I got this strange sensation that my shoe was perhaps wetter than it should be. On closer inspection 2 slugs had made their own overnight shelter in my shoe and were now absorbed into my sock. Good morning.

Anyway, the warmth of human kindness soon took away any feeling of ill luck as a kind gentleman insisted on directing me personally in his car to the next town for which I was seeking directions. I felt obliged to absolutely motor as fast as I could behind him, perhaps the fastest and most tiring 10k of the trip so far.

Anyway, the wind was on my back all day, and I ate up the miles towards Monte Bianco, or Mont Blanc. Warm rain came and went and came again, but a great day's riding ended up in the quiet winter resort of La Thuile, and the kind campsite owner even gave me a €5 discount, possibly for looking rather drenched. As I removed my shoes to shower, I discovered some friends of the slugs in my other shoe! Remarkably tricky things to rinse out of socks too I might say! I may have to take the day off riding tomorrow just to solve that problem. And to rest 18 day tired legs. And to potentially avoid the worst of the oncoming down pour.

Ciao, and now, a bientot, James

Haute cuisine (don't know the Italian for that)

There's no ice cream like Italian ice cream from a Gelateria. I am trying to ration myself to 1 double scoop per day. Current favourites, limone, frescha, cafe, chocolato.

I am still living off random bread, cheese, meat, and occasional fruit / vegetable combos. Current favourite is ciabatta, gorgonzola, Napoli salami (a little like chorizo), capers (yes), and tomato. It's a wild mix of flavours, but it works - says the man who likes peanut butter and horseradish sandwiches.

Continuing the food theme I do not recommend indulging in a coke, 2 espressos, a banana and a peach, half way up a steep 1000m climb. Within about half a mile of restarting my heart was rushing at about 200bpm and I felt so light headed it felt good.

This is not a drink free trip. I have really enjoyed cold Croatian and now Italian beer at the end of the day, bit never more than 3. In the last few days I have also taken to drinking red Italian wine, from a carton! It's not too bad, bloody cheap and you can re-seal it. I'm sold.