Pacific Coast Highway - Destination Santa Cruz

Santa Lucia Mountains ahead

I woke up on Day 5 of my Pacific Coast Route adventure to the most amazing day - a deep clear blue sky all around.  I set off for my 60 or so miles up the coast to Big Sur in a relaxed mood.  After stopping off to compete with the elephant seals in a burping and farting contest I approached the stretch of the route where the Santa Lucia Mountains reared up about 3000 ft and plunged straight into into the sea.

Road Closed!

As I mentioned last time, I had diligently checked for road closures the night before, and was given the all clear.  So when I was stopped by a passing motorists who told me that the road was closed ahead, of course I paid little attention, thinking blithely that they meant the temporary road closure north of Big Sur 60 miles away.  Then after about 30 miles I saw this....

  

(No), Road (Really Is) Closed

Of course, I continued to ignore the signs, but now with my confidence slightly diminished.  It was only when I saw this, that I really believed the road might actually be closed....

About turn
I had a good chat with the workers at the site of the rock slide.  They were pretty chuffed it was such a big one -with a big slide like this comes danger money and emergency over time! The main engineer and I chatted about walking down to the beach and over the slide, but as we did so, a whole load more rocks came cascading down the scree slope.  It became pretty obvious I would have to detour and make a trip over the mountain range, twice. Luckily the engineer made me a very generous offer of a lift back down the coast to the main route over the mountains.

(2 weeks later as I write this the road is still not open.  Apparently they have to transport all of the rock to first a transit site, and then onto a designated spot on the coast where they are allowed to 'feed' the Pacific ocean with the rock to continue the production of sand for the beaches)..

So the enforced revised route became...

Day 5 Part 1 - 30 miles from Hearst San Simeon Campground to Rock Slide 3 miles south of Gorda (A to B)

Day 5 Lift - 35 miles south or so to intersection of Route 1 and Route 46 (B to C)

Day 5 Part 2 - 55 hilly miles from intersection of Route 1 and Route 46 to Lake Naciemento Campground (C to D)

Day 6 - 58 miles to Kirk Creek Campground (D to E)

Day 7 - 27 miles to Big Sur Campground (E to F)

Day 8 - 81 miles to Downtown Santa Cruz (F to G)

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View from the first mountain climb

A 2000 ft climb from where the Caltrans engineer dropped me off was pretty spectacular, and tiring, giving me a view back to Morro Bay from whence I had come the day before.

The rest of the day was equally stunning through a wine growing region.  Unfortunately, by now I was off my map, and as well as being unforgettable for its beauty, it was also memorable for its endless winding turns and undulations.

Lake Naciemento the next morning
After a night in a campground by a reservoir populated by fishermen in speedboats, I woke up to fog all around.  After a short climb I was enjoying another blue bird day...

Fort Hunter Liggett
From the lake, the route headed north for a while and then west back towards the mountain range, and the coastline.  For about 20 miles the route passed through the most beautiful parkland scenery within the Fort Hunter Liggett training grounds. I stopped here for a quick pit stop, and did not get shot.

Climbing back over the Santa Lucia Mountains, again

800m high and hot.  I used the bathing facilities in several creeks on the way up.

My reward for hard work?

As I reached the top of the pass, I found $2 lying on the road, so I picked it up.  I was now both spiritually and financially rewarded.  I also nearly ran over a rattle snake 50m down the road - I didn't pick it up.

Descending

The 800m descent on my fully loaded touring bike was surprisingly fun, and quick - all that weight makes you accelerate pretty fast when you take the brakes off.  I couldn't help but overtake the few cars I came across.  Half way down I stopped to take in the view again, and heard the sound of a seal coming up 400m from the shore.

Kirk Creek - the best campground?
With my 100 mile detour complete, I arrived at Kirk Creek Campground, only about 20 miles up the coast from the rock slide.  I was met by the most hospitable campground host, and showed to the pitches he has reserved for bikers - the only remaining pitches on the whole campground.  It is an amazing spot, right on the coast, with gorgeous coastline all around, and a backdrop of the mountains.  To cap off a marvelous day, I had a great chat with some fellow touring cyclists, and the lovely Ardria and her mates in the next pitch even gave me a beer, fresh fruit, and some great route advice for the rest of my trip. I was rather giggly after the beer, ate my dinner and enjoyed the sunset.  Top memories.

The next morning...

My plan was a short trundle up the coast to Big Sur so I had a nice lie in.  Not a bad view from my tent  as I awaited the sea mist to burn off.

Bon voyage a pied
The 30 miles or so to the state park at Big Sur were very relaxed and enjoyable.  As I came down the last hill towards the campground.  I stopped at a lovely deli and had my first corn dog - basically a deep fried frankfurter. And it was so damn good I had to have 2.  And then because I had eaten them so quickly and had not allowed my stomach time to register the fact, I had a roast beef sandwich.  And to cap it off I swilled it all down with a litre of ice cold beer.  I felt quite full after that.  Whilst doing so, I met this rather eccentric Canadian guy who, in his retirement, was walking from Alaska to the southern tip of South America.  It was going to take him 4 years.  My own tour of the West Coast was put well into perspective.

Another perspective
Big Sur state park is well renowned for its Coastal Redwoods, the tallest trees in the Universe!  I had a great few hours walking round the parks and looking up into the canopy.  That night I met another couple of  pensioners doing the same route as me, but from North to South.  We shared stories, whiskey, and interesting chat about bike kit (I bet you can imagine).

Early morning dash

The next morning I was rudely awoken by my alarm at 5.45.  About 2 months before, a rock slide had taken half the road down into the sea about 15 miles north of Big Sur, and the repairs they were making meant that the road was closed from 8am until 8pm.  I struck the tent and decamped in about 45 minutes, and then sped up the coast to beat the closure.  I crossed Bixby Bridge, right by the roadworks, in good time, just as the sun made its first appearance for the day. 

Punnet o' strawbs

As I rode north from Bixby Bridge, I left the Santa Lucia mountains and the really dramatic coastline behind.  Carmel and Monterrey were a bit of a shock to the system, 5 days since seeing my last big town.  The terrain flattened and once again I passed through agricultural land.  I needed to pick up a present for Lisa and Richard, so I took the opportunity to buy them a Giant Artichoke.  (2 weeks later, as I dine with them for the last time we are still debating how you would actually cook one).  I also jammed down the juiciest, sweetest punnet of strawberries I have ever tasted and powered up the final stretch of coast into Santa Cruz. 

Pleasure point - the end of the road. For now.
So after about 80 miles, I arrived in Santa Cruz.  As I rode into town, chatting to a few people on the way, I picked up a really nice vibe.  Snat Cruz is the home to many a  cyclist, skate-boarder and of course surfer.

I was keen to ride all the way to Lisa and Richard's house, but when Lisa told me it was another 15 miles and a 1500 ft climb into the mountains, I accepted her kind offer of a lift.  As we drove up the steep 1 in 4 road up to her house, I realised that I had made the right decision.  As I looked out from Lisa and Richard's balcony over the hills with a beer, my tour up the Pacific Coast Highway ended with a suitably majestic view.  Bring on the San Francisco Bay area.